AY Honors/Knot/Fisherman's bend

2005-08-15T14:37:31Z

195.195.20.199:

The '''Fisherman's knot''' is a type of [[knot]].

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[[image:fishknot.png|frame|none|Fisherman's knot]]
[[Image:fisherman's_knot_steps.png|thumb|none|Fisherman's knot step-by-step]]
</div>

'''Canonical Name:''' Fisherman's knot. 
'''Variant Name(s):''' Waterman's knot, angler's knot, englishman's knot. 
'''Category:''' [[bend]] 
'''Origin:''' Ancient 
'''Related knots:''' [[overhand knot]] 
'''Releasing:''' Jamming. 
'''Efficiency:''' Unknown 
'''Caveat:''' None 
'''Uses:''' Securing two lines, especially fiddly threads. 
'''Comments:''' This is a great knot for tying threads or lines that are too thin for anything complicated. All you need to be able to do is tie an overhand knot in one end, pass the other end through it, and tie another one. Note that the first overhand can be tightened before the second is addressed, which stops the ends from flapping around. It is commonly used to tie fishing lines, and is popular because it can be tied in the most fiddly materials with cold wet hands, and because it crushes down to a very small blob which won't jam on a fishing rod. Once tight, the loose ends can be cropped very close to the knot.

If you are tying it in a mono-filament, such as a fishing line, the heat generated by the bending of the line into the very tight curves of the overhand knots can seriously weaken the line! If the line is wetted before the knot is tightened, it helps to dissipate the heat. 

'''Structure:''' Consists of two [[overhand knot]]s wrapped around each other that when pulled together collapse into one strong knot. 

'''Tying:''' Begin with two ropes, line them up with each other. Tie an overhand knot on the first rope and pass the second rope through the loop formed. Tighten the overhand knot, then tie another overhand knot on the second rope with the first rope passing through it. 

By wrapping the end around twice before passing it back through you can make the far safer double fishermans suitible for joinging climbing rope together. This knot has the disadvantage that it is very hard to undo once it has been loaded but is very secure.

==See also==
* [[List of knots]][[Category:knots]]

AY Honors/Knot/Prusik

2005-08-15T14:27:11Z

195.195.20.199:

A prussik or prussik knot is a specialist advanced climbing technique allowing a loop of weightbearing material with a fine diameter (usually around 6mm) to be tied to a wider line (usually around 9-11mm) in a fashion that will allow it to be moved along the line. These knots can be applied even when the wider line is under tension and have multiple applications.

Equipment
A prussik knot is applied using a loop of finer cord with tied ends (usually with a fishermans knot) or sown sling of around 60cm in length. These are usually then referred to as prussik loops and most experienced climbers carry a pair of these attached to their harness.

Knots
The three major prussik knots are:

Kleimheist
Auto-bloc
(incomplete information)

These are simple knots involving wrapping the loop around the rope 3-5 times (depending on the materials) and then (usually) back through it's self. When the loop is weighted the turns tighten against the main rope preventing movement. When weight is removed the prussik loop can be slid along the line by placing a hand directly on the turns and pushing.

Applications
Abseiling: A prussik loop can be used to protect during the descent, placed below a descender device and with one hand on it for controll it will act as an automatic dead mans handle should the climber be incapatited or require the use of their hands.

"Prussiking" or ascending the line: Two prussiks used in tandem can allow the experienced user to climb a rope that is fixed above them with minimal effort. One prussik is attached to the "abseil loop" sown onto the front of a harness and the other is attached to a longer length of cord reaching to one foot. With one loop attached to the rope above the other the climber can then stand up in the foot loop, slide the waist loop up and "sit" down on it. Once sat they can slide the foot loop up the rope and repeat the process.

Tying off: When belaying the hands are required on the line at all times and the belayer can not move away from the rope. Should the climber become in someway incapacitated and are in a position where they cannot be safely lowered to the ground then the belayer cannot come to their aid without appropriate skills and equipment. A special knot at this point will alow a belayer to "tie off" the belay plate a free the use of their hands. Correct applications of prussik loops will then alow them selves to move away from the belay device without endagering the climber. They can now affect a rescue or get help.

WARNING: Climbing is a sport with inherrent danger. The preceding techniques are general descriptions only and should only be practiced in a controlled environment with experienced instruction. It is recomended that you attend an official training course with certified instructors.

Please feel free to add to his script as it is far from complete.

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AY Honors/Knot/Fisherman's bend

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